The Valley of the Kings, Luxor
Osiris; god of death, Tomb of Seti I, Valley of the Kings
The Royal Necropolis
The graveyard of all graveyards, the Valley of the Kings. Located on the west bank of the Nile, across from the ancient capital city of Thebes - now modern-day Luxor, was the final resting place for the great pharaohs of old. Used for over 500 years during the time of Egypt's New Kingdom (16th c. BC to 11th c. BC), the powerful Pharaohs and nobles of ancient Egypt were buried in elaborate tombs cut into the desert rocks. The burial chambers of Pharaohs such as Ramses II and King Tutankhamun are among the known 65 tombs that have so far been found at the site. Some are mere pits, while others are immense structures composed of hidden passageways, deadly shafts, and secret chambers meant to confuse would-be raiders who sought to steal the treasures within.
Construction of these tombs would begin many years in advance to ensure they were ready for when the time came. And when the time came, the newly mummified kings and nobles would be laid to rest within their newly built tombs, surrounded by precious objects to be used in the afterlife, and ready to embark on the perilous journey through the underworld and beyond.
But how does one become a mummy? Firstly, one must be very well-off. As the process was quite expensive, the practice was usually reserved for the upper classes, high-ranking officials, and, of course, the royal court. And secondly, one must undergo the long and messy process of mummification following death.
Mummification begins with the washing of the body with fine wine and the waters from the River Nile. Next, the brain is removed. As the brain was not considered an organ of importance, it was mashed up with a narrow poker inserted via the nose, then poured out and disposed of. The important organs - all the abdominal ones - were taken out via an incision, washed, and placed in special canopic jars, to be re-joined with the owner in the afterlife as needed. The heart, however, received special treatment as the heart was thought to be the most important organ in the body, it was dried and put back into the abdomen.
Now the body was ready for curing by covering it with salt for 40 days until thoroughly dried. After the drying process was finished, the body was stuffed with rags and sawdust to keep its shape before being coated in spices and myrrh to give a pleasant smell. The body was then ready for the wrapping process to begin. Linen alternating with resin was used to bind the body with a few lucky amulets thrown in among the layers for protection in the afterlife. And finally, the death mask was placed on the face, and the body sealed within a sarcophagus or two before being laid to rest inside a tomb for eternity.
The brightly decorated walls and ceilings inside the tombs, The Valley of the Kings
Mumia: A Cure for all Ailments
Mumia, or rather ground-up mummy, was used as a medicinal substance and cure-all for everything from heart attacks to headaches and was even used as an aphrodisiac by some. The practice came from the belief that mummies possessed some kind of magic, especially those hailing from Egypt, and also, funnily enough, stemmed from a mistranslation.
Mumia was not originally made from mummies at all but from a substance called bitumen - a wax-like substance derived from asphalt which was prized for its healing properties in the arab world. ‘Mum’ being the Arabic for ‘wax’, the substance became known as Mumia in its native Persia. This rare substance was brought back to Europe during the times of the Crusades, but somewhere along the line, Mumia got lost in translation. Mumia wrongly became associated with the term ‘mummy’, which sounds similar, and thus actual mummies started to be used for its production. The ethics of medicinal cannibalism along with the efficacy of Mumia itself was generally not questioned until much later, and Mumia became a very popular remedy for a number of ailments, even treating the Plague at one point. It became so popular that demand soon out-stripped supply. Tombs started to be raided en mass, but as mummies were quite hard to come by in Europe, cadavers started to be exhumed, and the bodies of freshly executed criminals were snatched, salted, and ground into powder to be sold as Mumia. It was a thriving trade.
Mumia was widely used in Western Europe from the 12th to the 18th century, and in fact, didn’t completely die off until the late 19th century. And it wasn't the only gruesome use for mummies during this time. Egyptomania in Victorian-era Britain was at its peak. From mummy-brown paint used by well-known artists to mummy-unwrapping parties popular in the day, it's a wonder they didn't destroy all the mummies in Egypt!
Egyptian mummy seller (1875, Félix Bonfils)
Top tips
The Valley of the Kings is located in present-day Luxor on the West Bank of the Nile River. A popular starting point for Nile cruises on the way to Aswan in the South, but worth a trip in its own right. Within the vicinity are nearby Karnak and Luxor temples which are also a sight to see.
The Valley complex itself is a short open train ride away from the main building where the ticket gate and security are located. But be forewarned, it gets hot in the valley! Even in the winter, wear lots of sun cream and bring water and a hat.
The basic ticket includes entrance to three tombs, but this can be increased for an additional fee along with entrance to King Tut's tomb. It took approximately two hours in total for the visit, but this could be longer depending on how many tombs are visited.
The Valley can be reached by taxi, though it seemed most people were visiting as part of a tour and so had transport pre-arranged. Luxor itself has an airport with connections to Cairo in the North, or you can brave the overnight train that runs between Cairo and Aswan with Luxor in the middle. We opted for a three-hour taxi ride through the desert from Hurghada, which was definitely an interesting option.
However you choose to get there, having a tour guide is probably the best way to see the temples and tombs in the area as the licenced guides are experts in ancient Egyptian history and make the journey more interesting and memorable.
But beware of the aggressive salesmen on leaving the sites and the often mandatory gift shop visits and papyrus shops en route. Be sure to get your bargaining hat on, as all prices are fully negotiable! We actually found the best souvenirs were from the hawkers outside the temples rather than the official gift shops. Many deals to be had if you fancy a haggle!